De waardefactoren
Een taxateur weegt bij deze categorie een vast aantal criteria. Hieronder leggen we ze uit, in de volgorde waarin ze doorgaans worden bekeken.
Rose (rose cut)
Flat bottom, domed top with triangular facets. Originated in the 16th century, widely used until the early 20th century. Sparkles softer than faceted stones. Rose cuts are priced per stone; small rose cuts (under 0.10 ct) primarily have collector's value in the context of an original setting.
Old mine cut
Cushion-shaped, high crown, small table, large culet (the point at the bottom is flattened). Circa 1750–1900. Often slightly asymmetrical — this is not a flaw in these cuts but proof of handcraft. A good old mine cut above 1 ct with warm colour and original setting is a classic collector's stone.
Old European cut
Round, higher crown than modern brilliant cuts, smaller table, visible culet. Circa 1890–1930. This is the cut often found in art deco rings. In good quality, it commands three to five percent more than comparable modern brilliant cuts, as collector demand grows while supply shrinks.
Why no longer made
Modern traffic standards — the classic round brilliant with 57 or 58 facets — led to a wave of recutting at the end of the 20th century: old diamonds were 'modernised' for extra fire, with a loss of weight and character. Hand-cutting on this scale is labour-intensive and no longer commercially viable; new stones are machine-cut to the modern standard.
Recutting = loss of value
Recutting costs 10 to 25 percent in weight and 20 to 40 percent of the collector's value. For enthusiasts, a recut old European cut turns into 'just a smaller modern brilliant', losing its warm light return and handcrafted character. Do: don't do it, unless a specialist with auction experience requests it.