What determines the value of a vintage jewel?
These guides explain per category which factors weigh most heavily — material, period, cuts, signature — and give indicative ranges. For knowledge and background only.
What is an Art Deco jewel worth?
Art Deco (circa 1920–1935) is the most sought-after period among collectors of vintage jewellery. The sleek geometry, the use of platinum, and the old brilliant cuts make these pieces instantly recognisable — and often considerably more valuable than later, inspired work. What truly originates from the period can be worth many times more than a technically comparable piece from the 1970s executed 'in Art Deco style'. On this page, we explain what an appraiser does and does not consider, and what price ranges you can expect in the market.
Read the guide →What is Victorian jewellery worth?
The Victorian era (1837–1901) spans sixty years of jewellery history, and this breadth is the first factor determining its value. Early Victorian pieces differ fundamentally from late Victorian, both in material and symbolism. When having a Victorian piece appraised, one first wants to know its sub-period, the fineness of gold used, and whether it is complete and unaltered. In this guide, we will take you through the five value factors that an appraiser first considers.
Read the guide →What is a gold vintage ring worth?
A gold vintage ring always has two values: an intrinsic value (its weight in gold) and a collector's value (its design, period, condition). For light, simple rings, the appraisal often comes close to the melt value. For ornate work from a recognisable period, the collector's value is many times higher. In this guide, we will go through the four factors an appraiser first considers — and the pitfalls owners often create themselves before requesting an appraisal.
Read the guide →What is a vintage brooch worth?
Brooches are being worn widely again — on a lapel, a scarf, or a hat. For collectors, they are also a rewarding object: relatively affordable at the entry level, but with a top end that quickly rises towards the higher four figures. The clasp on the back often tells more about the age than the front itself. In this guide, we review the most important value factors — with particular attention to the clasp type, which is often the first dating clue.
Read the guide →What is the value of vintage pearls?
The question 'what are these pearls worth?' begins with another question: 'what kind of pearls are they?' Natural pearls, cultured pearls (Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian) and imitation pearls (glass, plastic, coated) can differ in value by a factor of a hundred. Vintage necklaces from before 1920 are almost always natural — after that, cultured pearls became the norm. In this guide, we explain how to distinguish between them, what appraisers look for, and the price ranges you can expect to find in the market.
Read the guide →What is an old diamond worth? Rose, old mine and old European cut
Old diamonds sparkle differently. They are hand-cut, have fewer facets than modern brilliant cuts, and display a warmer, more broadly dispersed fire. Among collectors, their value has risen sharply over the last decade — precisely because they are no longer made. In this guide, we examine the three main cuts, explain why recutting almost always leads to a loss of value, and what certification does or does not add.
Read the guide →What is the value of a garnet jewel? Bohemian garnet and more
Garnet jewellery is one of the most recognisable family traditions from Central Europe. Especially the deep red of the Bohemian pyrope garnet — small, brightly sparkling, and densely set — dominated the nineteenth and early twentieth-century market. Today, they are highly sought after again. In this guide, we explain why completeness is everything, what the difference is between Bohemian and Dutch work, and what price ranges the market currently shows.
Read the guide →What is a signed vintage jewel worth?
A signature from a major house can increase the value of a jewel by a factor of three to ten compared to a technically similar, unsigned piece. But signing alone is not enough — verifiable provenance, documentation, and completeness are equally important. In this guide, we explain exactly what appraisers look for, and what role the original box, invoice, and archive entry play. Brand names such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron or Bulgari are mentioned solely as text; we deliberately do not display house brands.
Read the guide →What is the value of blood coral jewellery?
Blood coral necklaces — the characteristic red strands with a gold clasp at the front — are among the most recognisable Dutch regional jewellery. They were worn for generations in Volendam, Marken, Bunschoten, Spakenburg, and Zeeland, and now often circulate as family heirlooms. What happens in the market with such a strand depends on several factors: is it real precious coral, how large and flawless are the beads, is the clasp original and of what gold fineness, and is the necklace complete as it was originally strung. This price guide explains these factors and provides indicative ranges — not appraisals.
Read the guide →What is the value of vintage earrings?
For vintage earrings, one factor weighs more heavily than for any other type of jewellery: pair completeness. A single earring from an otherwise beautiful pair is worth a fraction of the value of the complete pair. In addition, the clasp type — screw, clip, or modern post — helps determine the period of the piece and whether it is wearable for the current buyer. In this guide, we describe how an appraiser looks at earrings and the price ranges you can expect in the market.
Read the guide →What is a vintage necklace worth?
For vintage necklaces, the clasp is at least as important as the hanging part. An original clasp type from the period provides a dating anchor; a later replaced clasp directly reduces the value. Length is the second major factor: certain lengths belong to certain periods and partly determine wearability for the current buyer. In this guide, we review the four value factors that an appraiser first considers.
Read the guide →What is a vintage bracelet worth?
For vintage bracelets, two factors dominate: link weight and the presence of charms. Solid gold pieces from the mid-century are primarily appraised based on weight and design; charm bracelets receive a separate valuation where each charm is weighed as its own mini-object. In this guide, we will review the six factors an appraiser considers and the typical market price ranges.
Read the guide →What is a vintage signet ring worth?
For signet rings, one factor weighs more heavily than for any other ring: the integrity of the crest or monogram. An original, undamaged engraving on a gold signet ring is a historical document; a worn or later re-engraved crest leaves only the intrinsic gold value. In this guide, we explain how an appraiser looks at signet rings and why a 'blank' signet ring has a separate market from a family heirloom.
Read the guide →What is the value of a cameo jewel?
With cameo jewellery, the first divergence in valuation is immediate: is the cameo carved in shell or in stone? Shell cameos (conch and cornelian) are the most common and make up the largest part of the vintage market. Stone cameos — in agate, onyx or sardonyx — are rarer, technically much more intricate and fundamentally higher valued. In this guide, we explain the distinction and describe how an appraiser assesses the quality of the carving.
Read the guide →What is an Art Nouveau jewel worth?
Art Nouveau (circa 1890–1910) is a short, intense movement in which jewellery art radically breaks with nineteenth-century convention. Female profiles with flowing hair, dragonflies, orchids, peacock feathers, and organic lines dominate. For valuation, two factors are decisive: is it signed by one of the great names, and what is the condition of the enamel? Unsigned work from the same period has its own, separate market.
Read the guide →Further reading
Also discover the style guides per period and learn to recognise hallmarks in the complete stamp guide.