De waardefactoren
Een taxateur weegt bij deze categorie een vast aantal criteria. Hieronder leggen we ze uit, in de volgorde waarin ze doorgaans worden bekeken.
Link weight — the intrinsic base
For gold vintage bracelets, weight is the dominant factor. Weigh the piece on a kitchen scale, subtract approximately five percent for any accents or stones, and you have a rough estimate of the gold mass. For 18kt: weight × 0.75 × daily gold price = lower limit; for 14kt (585) × 0.585.
Heavy gourmet, panther, and anchor links typically weigh between 20 and 60 grams — the intrinsic value already starts to increase significantly there. Light or hollow constructions rely more on the design.
Charms as individual mini-objects
For charm bracelets, the appraiser weighs each charm as its own object. Important factors are: enamel condition, presence of rotating or moving parts (mechanical charms weigh more), signing of individual charms (e.g., by renowned workshops), and the completeness of small details such as doors or windows. Iconic charms — travel souvenirs from the 1950s–60s, birthstones in small settings, mechanical marvels — structurally elevate the whole.
Roughly estimate an additional fifty to five hundred euros per interesting charm on top of the base value of the bracelet itself.
Clasp type and safety chain
Boxlock with safety catch. Classic and robust; common from the late nineteenth century.
Box clasp with safety figure-eight. Often on mid-century pieces; the figure-eight is a small secondary safety component that is often missing.
Carabiner or bolt ring. On vintage pieces, usually a later replacement — check.
A completely present safety chain is a small but clear value-add, especially for heavier link bracelets.
Design and period
Retro (1935–1950). Heavy rose gold links, tank bracelets, wide polished bands.
Mid-century (1950–1965). Classic gold links; panther link is introduced during this period.
Bombé & funky (1960–1975). Large, sculpted compositions, often with coloured stones.
Bangle (armreif). Continuous line through all periods; dating primarily by hinge and clasp.
Completeness and original condition
Missing charms, removed safety chains, replaced clasps, and re-set stones reduce the value. An appraiser wants to assess the piece in its unaltered state; later repairs must always be reported.