Serpenti: value, history, and authenticity — independent guide

Het ontstaan

Bulgari, founded in Rome in 1884, developed a technique in the 1940s known as Tubogas: flat, flexible metal bands without solder, formed around a core that is removed upon completion. The first generation of Serpenti — bracelets and watches — was directly born from this technique: the coiled band suggests a snake, with a small head at the end and sometimes a tail running parallel.

In the 1950s and 1960s, the figurative snake form grew into one of the house's signatures. The earliest known public wearer was Elizabeth Taylor, who wore a Serpenti bracelet watch on the set of Cleopatra in the early 1960s — a moment that garnered significant international publicity and definitively established the line as an icon of post-war Italian joaillerie.

From the late 1970s, the line expanded to rings, necklaces, pendants, and earrings with a more abstract snake form. In the current assortment, the line continues in multiple sub-families — Serpenti Viper, Serpenti Seduttori, and related series — with a range from everyday wear to haute-joaillerie masterpieces.

Uitvoeringen door de jaren

The Tubogas execution — the coiled band technique — comes in various widths and numbers of coils. Early bracelets typically have a larger head with more detail than later productions, and the Tubogas itself is slightly less standardised in width in early work. Re-settings of stones in the head do occur; an appraiser always assesses whether eyes (often emeralds or rubies) and any central stones are originally set.

The figurative snake form — where the body is clearly modelled, with scales or linked segments — comes in yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold, with and without pavé, with or without enamel work. Enamel work is a signature in contemporary high-end executions; it is less common in early work.

Rings, pendants, and earrings from modern collections are more systematic in size and finish than early work. For the second-hand market, the distinction between 'vintage Tubogas' and 'modern Serpenti jewellery' is fundamental — collectors specifically seek items in one of these categories, rarely in both.

Echt of namaak?

The modern Serpenti line is a popular target for counterfeiting; early Tubogas work less so — the technique itself is difficult to convincingly replicate without specialised machinery. For the modern line, general patterns apply: anomalous weight, irregular finish of the snake head, stones not seamlessly set, eyes with a slightly different hue or lustre than usual. For Tubogas: irregular width along its length, visible solder marks where they shouldn't be, and a head disproportionate to the band.

The escalation route is well-known: papers and box first, then physical appraisal by an appraiser with specific experience in the line, and where possible, archival research through the house. For Tubogas work from the 1940s and 1950s, documentation is rare; an appraiser with historical knowledge is then key.

Verkopen of laten beoordelen

For early work, preserve every piece of context — letters, photos of previous ownership, old appraisals. For modern pieces, the box, original receipt, and warranty card are the standard set. Our free photo advice is a starting point; follow the photography guide for appraisal and a specialist will assess what you have.

Stuur beelden en een korte beschrijving; een specialist bekijkt binnen twee werkdagen wat je in handen hebt en adviseert over de juiste vervolgroute. Wij bemiddelen niet en zijn geen taxateur.