Bulgari vintage: Roman 60s–70s and the Serpenti as an icon

Door de redactie · Vakinhoudelijk getoetst · Bijgewerkt juli 2026

For the vintage market, Bulgari is primarily a Roman affair. Where Parisian haute joaillerie carries a distinct art deco tradition, this house positioned itself from the 1950s with its own language: colour over form, cabochon cuts, classical Greco-Roman motifs, and a pronounced predilection for yellow gold. The core collecting period lies in the 1960s and 1970s, with the <a href="/motieven/slangensieraden">Serpenti bracelet</a> and the Tubogas necklace as icons. This editorial guide describes at a pattern level what appraisers and auction houses look for in vintage pieces attributed to the house. Name exclusively as text, no house brands.

Brief historical context

The house was founded in Rome in 1884 by Sotirios Boulgaris, a silversmith from Greece. Under his sons Costantino and Giorgio, the firm developed into an established Roman jeweller in the first half of the twentieth century, but its own stylistic signature only matured in the 1950s and broke through internationally in the 1960s.

The opening of the Fifth Avenue branch in New York (1957) and the much-discussed jewellery for Elizabeth Taylor (from 1962, bought by Richard Burton on the set of Cleopatra) put the house on the world map. The 1970s and 80s are, for the vintage market, the period in which the characteristic house style (Serpenti, Tubogas, classical coin series) was most commercially visible and in which much of the work traded today was made.

Waar de verzamelmarkt op let

Period: Roman 60s–70s as a core period

For signed pieces from this house, the manufacturing period is an independent factor. The 1960s and 1970s are considered a core period in the auction market: the house style was fully matured, the craftsmanship from the Roman workshops was still dominant, and iconic series (Serpenti, Tubogas, Monete with antique coins) were in production. 1980s work from the same house is actively collected but trades at a slightly different price level; later reissues are weighted differently again.

Series: Serpenti, Tubogas, Monete

Iconic series are an independent factor. The Serpenti bracelet (snake shape with scales of gold or enamel and cabochon eyes) is the best-known example and has its own collecting market within the broader Bulgari production; for the broader iconography of the snake in vintage jewellery, we refer to our motif guide on snake jewellery. Tubogas (seamlessly curved gold tubing) and the Monete series (classical coins in gold settings) are other series whose name alone carries their value.

Material and stone

The preference for yellow gold and cabochon-cut coloured gemstones (turquoise, coral, amethyst, citrine, tourmaline) is characteristic of this house and aids in pattern recognition. A vintage piece in white gold with brilliants in a classic setting deviates from the common Roman idiom and warrants extra critical assessment before being accepted as authentic.

Documentation and signature

Signed work bears the brand name and additional identification in the usual discreet place; we describe this explicitly at a pattern level, without mentioning specific serial number formats or stamp positions. Documentation (box, purchase invoice, certificate) is a substantial factor for this brand: documented Serpenti and Tubogas pieces from the core period consistently achieve higher returns at international auctions than undocumented examples of comparable quality.

Iconische lijnen

Aparte lijngidsen binnen dit huis

De volgende lijnen hebben een eigen tweedehandsmarkt en verzamelaarsprofiel. Elke lijngids behandelt geschiedenis, uitvoeringsvarianten op patroonniveau, echtheidskader en verkoopadvies.

Bandbreedtes en realisme

Prijsranges als richtlijn

Small signed piece (ring, earring)

Highly dependent on period, material, and documentation.

€ 1.500 – € 8.000
Signature from the Roman core period (60s–70s)

Cabochon coloured gemstone work in yellow gold with full documentation consistently increases value.

€ 5.000 – € 40.000
Iconic Serpenti or Tubogas with documentation

Rare documented pieces from these series are internationally collected.

€ 15.000 – multiples thereof

The stated ranges are indicative and based on public auction results. Actual value requires assessment of the piece itself by an independent appraiser; top and bottom prices may fall outside these ranges in both directions.

Verkopen of laten beoordelen

Onafhankelijke beoordeling is bij deze categorie de standaard

Voor gesigneerde stukken loont onafhankelijke beoordeling altijd — zowel voor verificatie van authenticiteit als voor een realistische waardebepaling. Wij bemiddelen niet en zijn geen taxateur; ons gratis advies op foto is een startpunt dat je met een paar beelden kunt aanvragen, waarna we je doorverwijzen naar geschikte specialisten en veilinghuizen in ons netwerk.

Vraag gratis advies →

Veelgestelde vragen

Wat lezers vaak vragen

Why is Serpenti so valuable?

Because the shape is iconic and the execution (scales in gold or polychrome enamel, cabochon eyes, flexible construction) is technically demanding. Documented Serpenti pieces from the core period have their own collecting market within the broader Bulgari production.

Are later reissues also "vintage Bulgari"?

Not in an appraisal sense. The collecting market distinguishes the original core period from later reissues and contemporary production; price levels therefore differ. Documentation of the manufacturing date is decisive.

Why is white gold with brilliant diamonds considered unusual for this house?

Because the Roman house style from the core period explicitly focuses on yellow gold and cabochon coloured gemstones. A white gold piece does not necessarily have to be fake, but it deviates from the pattern and warrants extra critical assessment.

How can I have authenticity checked?

Through an independent appraiser with auction experience and, where available, through an archive statement from the house itself. Photos alone are never conclusive.

Verder lezen

Curious what you have in your hands?

Prijsranges zijn een startpunt; wat je precies in handen hebt bepaalt de bandbreedte. Stuur foto's en een korte beschrijving, dan bekijkt een specialist wat het is en adviseert binnen twee werkdagen over een logische vervolgroute.

Request free advice

Independent advice about what you have and your options — not a purchase offer, not a formal appraisal.

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