Trifari: the American costume house with the Philippe period as its collecting core

Door de redactie · Vakinhoudelijk getoetst · Bijgewerkt juli 2026

Trifari is one of the best-documented American houses for the vintage costume collecting market. Its main production was between approximately 1930 and 1970, with a distinct collecting core in the so-called Philippe period (Alfred Philippe as chief designer, 1930–1968). What distinguishes the firm from its contemporaries is its setting technique: rhinestones set with precision (as in fine jewellery) instead of glued. This guide describes at a pattern level what the vintage market considers important for this house. Name exclusively as text; no house marks.

Brief historical context

The house was founded in New York in 1918 by Gustavo Trifari, later joined by partner Leo Krussman and salesman Carl Fishel. From the early 1930s, Alfred Philippe joined as chief designer (coming from fine-jewellery experience at one of the great Parisian houses); under his artistic direction, the firm defined its signature style and the so-called "jewels of fantasy" (fruit and flower reliefs, animal figures, calibré-like settings in gilded metal with clear rhinestones).

In the same period, the house gradually introduced the well-known "Crown Trifari" mark: a small crown above the firm's name, initially as a patent marking, later as a permanent signature. The Philippe period lasted until 1968; after that, artistic direction changed several times and part of the production moved outside the United States during the 1970s and 1980s. For the vintage market, American production until approximately 1970 is considered the core, with the years 1935–1955 as the peak.

Waar de verzamelmarkt op let

Period: the Philippe years as the core

For signed pieces, the manufacturing period itself is a determining factor. Work from the Philippe years (1930–1968), and within that period especially the series from 1935–1955, is consistently valued higher at auction than later work. Well-known themes from this core period include the "jewels of fantasy", the fruit and leaf series, and the patriotic pieces from the war years.

Crown signature at pattern level

The signature at pattern level consists of the firm's name with, from the late 1930s, a small crown in front or above it. We explicitly describe this at a pattern level, without specific fonts or stamp positions. Early pieces (before the introduction of the crown) bear only the firm's name; the absence of the crown is therefore not automatically a sign of forgery, but an indication for dating. For definitive attribution, reference catalogues and an appraiser with costume experience are the appropriate route.

Condition is everything

For this house, more sharply than for precious metal work: condition is decisive. Faceted rhinestones must be clear and not replaced; the gilding (usually rhodium or gold-coloured plating) must be intact; set stones must not be loose. A signed piece from the core period in moderate condition is structurally a fraction of the value of the same piece in pristine condition. This is the first factor that counts in an appraisal, before signature and period.

Series and model

Some series within the Philippe period (well-known examples include the "jelly belly" animals with a central Lucite cabochon and the patriotic pieces from the war years) have their own collecting market with specific value ranges. Reference to published catalogues and to specialised vintage-costume dealers is standard for attribution to a specific series.

Bandbreedtes en realisme

Prijsranges als richtlijn

Signed piece outside core period, good condition

Later Trifari production in pristine condition.

€ 40 – € 150
Signed Philippe period in good condition

Highly dependent on series, theme and completeness of rhinestones.

€ 120 – € 500
Iconic series in pristine condition (e.g. jelly belly, patriotic)

Rare documented pieces from well-known Philippe series.

€ 400 – € 3.500

Indicative value ranges based on public auction results in the costume segment. Actual value requires appraisal of the piece itself by an appraiser with costume experience; condition is often more decisive for this brand than for precious metal work.

Verkopen of laten beoordelen

Onafhankelijke beoordeling is bij deze categorie de standaard

Voor gesigneerde stukken loont onafhankelijke beoordeling altijd — zowel voor verificatie van authenticiteit als voor een realistische waardebepaling. Wij bemiddelen niet en zijn geen taxateur; ons gratis advies op foto is een startpunt dat je met een paar beelden kunt aanvragen, waarna we je doorverwijzen naar geschikte specialisten en veilinghuizen in ons netwerk.

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Veelgestelde vragen

Wat lezers vaak vragen

What is the "Philippe period"?

The period 1930–1968 during which Alfred Philippe defined the signature style of this house as chief designer. Within that period, the years 1935–1955 are considered the core of the collecting market.

Does "no Crown" mean it's not real Trifari?

No. Early pieces (before the introduction of the crown) bear only the firm's name. The absence of the crown is therefore not proof of forgery, but an indication for dating.

Why is condition so important here?

Because faceted rhinestones and gilding form the aesthetic core of the piece; missing, dull or replaced stones and worn plating directly affect the value. For this brand, that comes before signature and period.

How do I recognise a jelly belly?

By a central translucent Lucite cabochon ("belly") in an animal figure (frog, fish, seahorse). This series from the war years has its own collecting market and reference to published catalogues is standard.

Verder lezen

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Prijsranges zijn een startpunt; wat je precies in handen hebt bepaalt de bandbreedte. Stuur foto's en een korte beschrijving, dan bekijkt een specialist wat het is en adviseert binnen twee werkdagen over een logische vervolgroute.

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