Costume jewellery: collectible value of fashion jewellery

Door de redactie · Vakinhoudelijk getoetst · Bijgewerkt juli 2026

Costume jewellery (gilded base metal with glass or paste stones) is a distinct collector's market with its own rules. Precious metal value is virtually absent; the value lies entirely in the collector's market: in the design, in the condition, and in the manufacturer's signature. This page will remain as an overview of the category. For the two names most frequently encountered in the Dutch market (Trifari and Miriam Haskell), we have separate brand guides with pattern-based identification and value ranges. We only mention brand names as text and do not display house brands.

Brief historical context

From the 1930s onwards, a large industry for stylised fashion jewellery emerged in the United States. The main American names are Trifari, Miriam Haskell, Coro, and Weiss; in Europe, the couture lines of major fashion houses play a significant role, and in Germany, the industry from Pforzheim produces a lot of technical work.

From the 1930s to the 1960s, the category grew into a broad cultural phenomenon. From the 1980s, a steady vintage collector's market emerged, which remains active today.

Waar de verzamelmarkt op let

Manufacturer's signature

The most important independent factor is the manufacturer's signature. Signed pieces by well-known American brands from the 1930s to the 1960s fetch significantly higher prices than unsigned pieces from the same period. For Trifari and Miriam Haskell, we refer to the separate brand guides; these describe signature patterns and the collector's core of each house individually.

Designer (where traceable)

For some brands, the name of the lead designer or a specific designer collaboration is an additional factor. Pieces from these collaborations (recognisable in specific series or design language) are consistently valued higher than generic factory brands from the same house. Collectors know these series by name.

Condition of rhinestones and gilding

Rhinestones are the most fragile factor. Missing, dull, or replaced stones directly affect the value. A complete and clear rhinestone surface is a substantial part of the appraisal. The gilding (copper colour showing through the gold or rhodium layer) is also an independent factor.

No precious metal value

Costume jewellery is base metal (brass, white metal, copper) with a thin gilded layer. The underlying metal value is negligible. The full value lies in the collector's market: signature, design, period, and condition. Never confuse this category with precious metal pieces; the appraisal works on fundamentally different criteria.

Bandbreedtes en realisme

Prijsranges als richtlijn

Unsigned vintage costume jewellery

Without recognisable signature and without specific series attribution.

€ 15 – € 80
Signed American brand in good condition

Highly dependent on brand, period, and completeness of rhinestones. For Trifari and Haskell: see the separate brand guides.

€ 60 – € 400
Iconic series or designer collaboration

Rare documented pieces from well-known collaborations.

€ 300 – € 3.500

Indicative value ranges based on public auction results in the costume segment. Actual value requires an appraisal of the piece itself by an appraiser with costume experience.

Verkopen of laten beoordelen

Onafhankelijke beoordeling is bij deze categorie de standaard

Voor gesigneerde stukken loont onafhankelijke beoordeling altijd — zowel voor verificatie van authenticiteit als voor een realistische waardebepaling. Wij bemiddelen niet en zijn geen taxateur; ons gratis advies op foto is een startpunt dat je met een paar beelden kunt aanvragen, waarna we je doorverwijzen naar geschikte specialisten en veilinghuizen in ons netwerk.

Vraag gratis advies →

Veelgestelde vragen

Wat lezers vaak vragen

Does costume jewellery have precious metal value?

No, virtually none. The base metal (brass, white metal) is negligible in value. The full value lies in the collector's market: signature, design, period, and condition.

Why is a signed piece worth so much more?

Collectors specifically look for known signatures. A signed American brand from the 1930s to the 1960s in good condition can differ by a factor of ten to twenty compared to unsigned pieces of comparable execution.

Do Trifari and Haskell have separate guides?

Yes. Both are visibly present in the Dutch market and have their own collector's core; for pattern-based identification and value ranges, we refer to the separate brand guides.

Is unsigned costume work always of little value?

Often, but not always. Some unsigned pieces from specific workshops are easily recognisable to specialists. When in doubt, it is worthwhile to ask an appraiser with costume experience.

Verder lezen

Curious what you have in your hands?

Prijsranges zijn een startpunt; wat je precies in handen hebt bepaalt de bandbreedte. Stuur foto's en een korte beschrijving, dan bekijkt een specialist wat het is en adviseert binnen twee werkdagen over een logische vervolgroute.

Request free advice

Independent advice about what you have and your options — not a purchase offer, not a formal appraisal.

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