B
- Bayonet clasp
- A clasp where a pin is inserted into a slot and locked with a quarter turn — just like a bayonet lens. Found on brooches, necklace clasps, and some bracelets from the first half of the twentieth century. Recognisable by the characteristic quarter-click when closing and a small guide slot next to the pin.
- Briolette
- A pear- or drop-shaped gemstone cut that is fully faceted, without a flat table. It sparkles from all sides and was often used in Edwardian pendants and earrings. It differs from a regular drop cut in that no unfaceted surface remains; the light continually plays through the stone. → Edwardiaanse stijl
C
- C-clasp
- An early brooch clasp where the pin simply rests in an open C-shaped hook, without a safety mechanism. Characteristic of nineteenth-century brooches and often combined with a longer pin that extends beyond the brooch itself. Later clasps (trombone, safety eight) replaced this to prevent loss. → Sluitingen en constructie
- Cabochon
- A gem cut with a rounded, unfaceted top. This is a traditional cut for stones displaying asterism (star sapphire, star ruby), chatoyance (cat's eye), or play-of-colour (opal). It is also used for opaque materials such as coral, jet, and amazonite. You can recognise it by its smooth, domed surface and flat or slightly domed base.
- Calibréalso: calibré cut
- Small gemstones cut to a specific size and shape to precisely fit the design — for example, trapezoids, triangles, or curved segments that lie seamlessly next to each other. Characteristic of art deco and Edwardian jewellery where the stone literally fits into the metal and defines the composition. → Art deco-sieraden
- Cameoalso: cameo
- A portrait or scene carved in relief from a layered material — shell, agate, coral, or lava — wherewith the top layer forms the image and the underlying layer colours the background. Distinguished from intaglio: in a cameo, the image is raised, whereas in intaglio, the image is incised. → Camee-sieraden
- Chatelaine
- A hook attached to the belt, from which hung small chains, to which a woman carried her everyday items: keys, scissors, a notebook, a watch, a vinaigrette. Characteristic of the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. As a jewel, the chatelaine is both a fashion and a functional accessory — a visible sign of the lady of the house.
- Choker
- A close-fitting necklace that sits snugly around the neck, typically between 33 and 38 centimetres. Popular during the belle époque with pearls and velvet, again in the 1920s, and in the 1990s. Requires a precise fit; a choker that is too loose loses its characteristic silhouette.
- Cluster ring
- A ring where multiple smaller stones are set closely together in a compact floral or domed arrangement, creating the impression of a single large stone. Popular in the Victorian and Edwardian periods and again in the 1970s. Often features a central stone surrounded by smaller ones, or an even setting without a clear centre.
- Cocktail Ring
- A striking, large statement ring intended for wear with evening attire. Originating in the 1920s and 1930s—the era of the cocktail party—and making a comeback during the retro period. Characterised by a large coloured (semi)gemstone or an exuberant design dominated by volume, contrast, and sparkle. → Retro-sieraden
D
- Date letter
- A letter within a hallmark that indicates the year of assay — mandatory in the Netherlands until 1953 for every assayed item. The combination of a date letter and a maker's mark allows for dating and attribution. In addition to the Netherlands, England and France have comparable systems with their own series of letters. → Stempels en keurmerken
- Demi-parure
- A smaller jewellery ensemble consisting of two to three matching pieces — for example, a brooch with earrings, or a necklace with earrings. It differs from the full parure (which additionally includes a tiara, bracelet, rings) in that it is less occasion-bound and has more often been preserved intact.
- Doubléalso: gold-filled
- Metal where a thick layer of gold has been mechanically applied to a base metal (usually brass or tombac) — thicker than gilding and considerably more durable. Nineteenth-century French doublé can be one hundred and fifty years old without the gold layer having worn through. Recognisable by weight and sometimes a stamp such as 'doublé' or 'FIX'.
E
- Entourage ring
- Ring with a central gemstone surrounded by a halo of smaller gemstones (the 'entourage'). A classic in Belle Époque and Edwardian designs; the design accentuates the centre stone and visually enlarges the whole. It differs from the cluster by having a clear centre; it differs from the halo by the richer and often multi-layered setting.
- Eternity ring
- A ring with a continuous setting of identical stones — usually brilliant-cut diamonds or gemstones — all the way around, without interruption. A symbol of continuity and therefore popular for wedding and anniversary gifts. Disadvantage: eternity rings are hardly adjustable in size because the setting cannot be interrupted anywhere. → Ringmaat opmeten
F
- Filigree
- Pierced-work technique using thin gold or silver wires soldered into a fine lace pattern — sometimes with granules (granulation) as an accent. Characteristic of Edwardian platinum jewellery and Mediterranean traditions (Southern Italy, Greece). Requires craftsmanship in soldering without melting the wires.
- Foil backing
- A setting where a coloured foil layer is placed behind the gemstone to enhance its colour or fire. A standard technique for Georgian and early Victorian rings featuring rose-cut diamonds and coloured stones. Requires dry storage: moisture behind the foil will damage the layer and cause stains visible through the stone. → Slijpsels door de eeuwen
G
- Garland
- A composition in the form of garlands or festoons — delicate ribbons of gemstones that weave through the design like a garland. Characteristic of Belle Époque and Edwardian platinum jewellery: necklaces, tiaras, and brooches were constructed around this light, hanging interplay of lines. Directly related to contemporary fashion and interior design (Louis XVI revival). → Edwardiaanse sieraden
- Gildedalso: gilt
- Metal with a thin golden layer, usually applied galvanically (electrolytically). Thinner and more fragile than gold-plated (doublé); the layer wears through with intensive use, revealing the base metal. Vintage gilded pieces can acquire a beautiful patina, but comparison with solid gold usually quickly clarifies the difference in handling.
- Granulation
- A technique in which microscopic gold granules are applied to a surface and fixed to each other and to the base without solder. Of Etruscan origin, later revived by nineteenth-century designers such as Castellani. Characterises archaeological revival jewellery in which delicate beaded patterns form the decoration.
H
- Hallmark
- Official hallmark guaranteeing the fineness of precious metal (gold, silver, platinum) — in the Netherlands, a lion, Minerva head, or similar figure combined with a fineness number. Mandatory for most jewellery traded in the Netherlands above a certain weight threshold. Combines with a maker's mark and date letter to provide a legible history of a piece. → Keurmerken
I
- Intaglio
- A motif carved in a gemstone in reverse relief – the opposite of a cameo. Traditionally used in signet rings: a monogram or family crest that leaves an impression in wax. Often in carnelian, bloodstone, or onyx; recognisable by its hollow image that appears 'reversed' when viewed from above. → Zegelringen
J
- Jetalso: jet
- Black, light, and warm-feeling fossilized material — petrified wood — which in the nineteenth century was the raw material for Victorian mourning jewellery. It is mined in Whitby, England. It differs from glass and black onyx in that it is light in the hand and warms to the touch; it polishes to a deep, subdued lustre. → Rouwsieraden
L
- Lavaliere
- A delicate pendant on a fine chain, often asymmetrical with one or two small pearls or gemstones on a light garland. Popular around 1900 and named after Louise de La Vallière, mistress of Louis XIV. A perfect example of Edwardian, light, and romantic work in gold or platinum.
M
- Maker's Mark
- The personal stamp of the goldsmith or maker, in the Netherlands typically initials within a shield. In combination with the hallmark and date letter, the maker's mark allows for attribution to a specific workshop. The maker's registers of the assay offices have been partially preserved and are digitally searchable. → Stempels en keurmerken
- Marquisealso: navette
- Boat-shaped, tapering gemstone cut – two curved sides ending in sharp points. Named after the Marquise de Pompadour, whose smile is said to have served as its inspiration. Characteristic of eighteenth- and nineteenth-century rings (the marquise ring) and popular again in art deco. → De markiezenring
- Millegrain
- A fine border of minuscule grains around a setting or along a line, applied with a millegrain wheel. Characteristic of platinum work from the belle époque and art deco: the granular edge gives the metal a velvety lightness and softens hard contours. Wears smooth with intensive use, from which the age of a ring can sometimes be inferred. → Edwardiaanse sieraden
O
- Old European cut
- A round diamond cut from approximately 1890-1930, characterised by a deeper pavilion, a higher crown, a small table, and usually an open cullet. It is the precursor to the modern brilliant, but with a warmer, less 'calculated' fire. Recognisable by the visible cullet which appears as a small circle of light in the centre of the stone. → Oude diamant-slijpsels
- Old mine cut
- Cushion-shaped diamond cut that was dominant from circa 1800 to 1890. Rectangular with strongly rounded corners, a high crown, a small table, and an open culet. It was hand-cut by candlelight and, as a result, has an irregular, warm fire that modern cuts lack. Valued by collectors for this historical signature. → Oude diamant-slijpsels
P
- Parure
- A complete jewellery set — necklace, earrings, brooch, bracelet and sometimes a diadem — matching in style and material. Fully preserved parures are rare and highly sought after by collectors; more often one finds a demi-parure (two to three pieces), or pieces that have become separated from an original set.
- Pendeloque
- A pear-shaped or drop-shaped pendant, often seen on a necklace or earring. Also: a brooch to which a second hanging element (with a hinge or loop) is attached below it — the so-called brooch-pendant. Characteristic of Edwardian and art deco work, where the pendeloque extends the composition vertically.
- Pinchbeck
- Eighteenth-century alloy of copper and zinc that strongly resembles gold. Invented by the London watchmaker Christopher Pinchbeck to create affordable 'golden' jewellery and watch cases. Recognisable by the lack of hallmarks and its characteristic, slightly reddish colour. Today, its value is mainly historical and for collectors. → Materiaal en karaat
- Plique-à-jour
- Enamelling technique in which coloured enamel is melted between thin metal wires without a backing plate — the result works like a miniature stained-glass window, allowing light to shine through the enamel colours. Characteristic of art nouveau work by René Lalique and contemporaries; fragile and therefore rarely preserved intact. → Art nouveau-sieraden
R
- Repoussé
- A technique where a metal sheet is hammered out from the reverse side to form a relief on the front. Often supplemented with chasing (finishing work on the front). Classical for nineteenth-century silver brooches and belts; the relief is palpable on the reverse side as an inverted shape.
- Rose-cut diamondalso: rose cut
- A diamond cut with a flat base and a faceted top in the shape of a closed rosebud — usually with twelve to twenty-four triangular facets. Popular from the seventeenth century through to the nineteenth century, often set on foil to add fire. Recently revived by contemporary designers. → Slijpsels door de eeuwen
S
- Safety-catch
- A small figure-eight or S-shaped safety hook that rotates around the pin of a brooch clasp to provide extra security. Standard from around 1930 and still in use today. Occasionally added later to older brooches — a dating detail that can reveal a restoration.
- Sautoir
- A very long necklace — often extending below the waist — typically ending in a tassel, pendant, or pearl drop. Characteristic of the 1920s, worn over loose-fitting dresses and sometimes wrapped around the neck to form a double loop. Emphasises the vertical line so typical of the art deco silhouette. → Art deco-sieraden
- Screw-back
- An earring fitting for non-pierced ears where a screw-like knob is tightened behind the earlobe to hold the earring in place. Standard from circa 1900 to 1960 and safer than the earlier clip. For vintage earrings, it is a strong indicator of the period; it is rarely produced new today.
T
- Tank bracelet
- Heavy, articulated bracelet from the 1940s with wide gold links resembling the track chain of a tank. A quintessential Retro signature: solid gold, a masculine-feminine aesthetic, and robust volume. Often crafted in rose gold and sometimes set with synthetic rubies or citrines on the clasp. → Retro-sieraden
- Tombak
- An alloy of copper and zinc with a high copper content — related to pinchbeck, but with a slightly deeper, reddish hue. It was used for affordable jewellery in the nineteenth century. Lacks the golden colour depth with intensive wear: red-copperish areas become visible where the layer has worn off.
- Trombone clasp
- Cylindrical brooch clasp where a tube is slid over the pin and locked with a small knob - resembling a miniature trombone. Came into use around 1890 and remained popular until the interwar period. A transitional form between the open C-clasp and the later safety-eight clasp. → Sluitingen en constructie